Riding real waves

posted in: Artist's Corner, Blog | 0

King Kelly has manged to build the most ridiculous man made wave … EVER BRU!!!!! I’m being deadly serious, come on, you must have seen the footage of him riding it and then all his pro surfing mates getting 30 second barrels while someone in the back ground shouts ‘my god he must be cramping’?? It really is quite a sight …

But this new revelation of wave pool awesomeness has got me thinking. Is it really as good as the real thing? Surely a wave that perfect is just as good if not better than the real thing, but surfing to me isn’t just about ‘The Wave’. For me it’s a whole lot more than that.

It’s the anticipation of scoring waves, it’s about the mission I make to get waves, it’s about hanging out with my friends on desolate empty beaches, it’s about getting into a wet wetsuit at 6 am while jumping up and down in a parking lot trying to keep warm, it’s about getting skunked and driving home dry, it’s about that first duck dive, it’s about tracking swells, it’s about learning the ins and outs of my local coast line, it’s about finding new spots and keeping them off social media, it’s about making new friends that share the stoke, it’s about discovering new countries on surf trips, it’s about the stories shared around camp fires, it’s about laughing at your mate as he gets sucked over the falls on a big double up, it’s about hooting for ous that get the bomb of the day, it’s about giving a frothing grom a screamer, or letting an older ballie get a set wave, it’s about rock jump offs and getting smoked by the beachie, it’s about the smell of kelp, it’s about that warm offshore wind in my face and the pure awesomeness that comes out of sitting in the line up!

But after all that the one thing that really does it for me, isn’t getting barrelled or cracking the best turn of my life, it’s a lot simpler than that, it’s just being able to feel the beach sand between my toes. For me there is nothing better, it literally washes away all the shit that gets you down, it’s the prequel to the salty awesomeness that’s coming!

So Mr Slater …. When I one day get the opportunity to come and ride that awesome man made wave you have so kindly created, please can you make sure there is a little patch of beach sand I can run across before I get barrelled for 30 seconds? Shot bru, appreciate it 🙂

Pic Source: http://cdn1.theinertia.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/ks1.jpg

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