….. “insert annoying alarm noise” You roll over, smack what ever is making that infernal racket, “WHY??” your body is shouting at you … BUT then you remember … there’s waves bru!
Now for me personally it can be pretty damn difficult to drag my cosy warm ass out of bed in the pitch black to put on a wet wetsuit and jump into water that is around the 15 degree Celsius mark. BUT it’s like I said earlier …. There are waves!
Coffee in hand, surfboard and wettie packed, don’t forget your towel (I have one mate that ALWAYS forgets his towel) and you are in the car, off down to your local beachie. The froth level is rising with every meter you edge closer to the sand, you round the last corner and pull into the parking lot! What greats you is soul destroying … There are people there, and I’m not talking a couple of the local crew, I’m talking 10 dudes in the water and another pile in the parking lot either suiting up or on their phones! Don’t get me wrong I mean everyone is entitled to hit the dawnie, but how did this go from having epic uncrowded waves at this very spot only a couple of days ago, to this totally crowded madness?
This is my theory …
Now we as surfers are a rather strange bunch and let us be honest we have some pretty narcissistic tendencies. One of these is bragging to your mates about how stupidly good waves you got at a certain spot, Or telling your mates ‘What good banks are at spot A’. Another one is ‘Bru I rate spot B is going to fire on Saturday morning’! I have caught myself doing this on numerous occasions!
However as surfing grows in popularity, and the local surf spots are getting more and more crowded -why not try and keep that epic bank to yourself? Go on a mission and look for new spots! As surfers in South Africa we are ridiculously spoilt for choice, our coastline is 2,798 KMS in length and is just absolutely littered with uncrowded waves.
So grab a small crew, pack the cabby, remember your towel and go on a mission. I promise its worth every second and I have never met anyone who came back from a road trip and said ‘Well that sucked’! There are waves out there bru, go and find them!!
Oh and one other thing … Not everything has to go on Instagram 😉